If Romeu Henrique will make a stainless steel tuned pipe for the 200 you be stupid not to get a pipe that never rusts!…
SpookDog
Posts
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Dt200r aftermarket exhaust -
Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR)Didn’t someone else have the exact same problem with the emulsion tube a couple weeks ago? Hard to start and bogged out at open throttle?…
My memory isn’t like it used to be 🤪
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Dt200r aftermarket exhaustHand made stainless steel pipe, would make it easier for you to Tig weld. The welds would fit right in…
Really you need a pipe tuned to that engine though. I’ve got no experience with Fat Mother Fuckers, but they look well made from what I can remember….
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Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR)Side to side is ok. It’s up and down play that you don’t want…
I’m
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So Close!...Well, I couldn’t confirm the sizes, so I’m hoping that they’re right so I don’t have to Rip t Piss out of Hotshot!! 😜
I’m just praying that the sleeves are in good enough order (especially the roller bearing one) to match up nicely 🤞 … -
So Close!...Double check all of these dimensions before ordering as it's a while since I did a DTR linkage job but I'm pretty sure these are correct. Just rip the piss out of me if they're not.
Is there anyone who knows the sizes of the needle-roller bearings and the phosphor bronze bushes definitely? The only way I can find out is to strip down the linkage first. I don’t want to take the bike off of the road though. Also I’ll probably destroy the bearings and bushes during removal! From what I remember the bearings were loose rollers that I had to stick/pack into place with grease, only the outer ‘cages’ were drift~fitted inside the linkage to frame union. They were very thin gauge metal and easily damaged…
Ta!…
PS. Is the 20mm inner or outer?…
Edit: The inner is 20mm on both bearings and bushes. Are the bearings 23mm outer like the bushes?…
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Where is everybody ???How do you fix a snapped chain with sprockets?! 😜
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So Close!...I don’t think that it is. There’s no play on the lever, let alone sponginess, but I don’t think it’s getting the full pressure of the system at the pads. I can’t see any other reason…
47,125 miles today! That’s 34K since I’ve been riding 🙂…
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Head scratcherMine was like it when I first sussed out it was removable. It was caked in what looked like cement dust!
I’m glad you got it running sweet again 😜 -
Head scratcherWasn’t just the wrap. It was the gap in the resin around the wires. But yeah, I have no experience with later bikes 🙂 RE was a boring class I had to sit through when I was 10 years old…
I hope you find the problem…
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Head scratcherCDI doesn’t look right. I’ve never seen one with blue shrink insulation…
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4BL flywheel removalFirst gear, back brake on. I use a half inch socket with a slide bar, apply pressure to take up the ‘slack’ then a sharp tap with a rubber mallet usually does it…
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Head scratcherHey! Try running it with the ‘deristrict’ wire not earthed. See if there’s any difference…
The reed/read bulb refers to a dtr (don’t know what year) rev limiter…
PS have you cleaned out the jets and emulsion tube when you had the carb apart?…
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Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR)I had a lot of problems with air getting in at the nipple. In the end I used softer, tight silicon tube for air tightness and put some sealant on the nipple threads…
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Head scratcherOily and black is rich mixture. Probably where you’ve played with the needle/carb settings…
You won’t see a break inside the insulation.
I don’t know much about your model but it sounds like it’s rev limiting itself. If the wire (green?) isn’t properly earthed, or connected to it’s proper place (CDI?) the CDI might be defaulting to a ‘safe’ mode. I’ve heard of similar problems with bikes with the rev limiter read bulb in the speedometer…It’s the only thing I can think of if everything else is in good order like you said. It started off intermittent then failed completely…
You can do continuity testing with a multimeter. You may have to pierce the wire with a pin to make a testing point…
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Head scratcherIf there’s a break inside you won’t tell by reconnecting it. It’d be the same
What colour is the plug?
Is the spark good?If you can’t dial in on the problem you’ll have to do a top end check eventually. Head off or at least check out the piston and rings through the exhaust port…
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Head scratcherThe ‘derestrict’ wire…
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Head scratcherHave you checked the wire for breakage?
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Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR)Yep! I used clear pink fuel hose and it was constantly covered in ‘condescending’ 😳
I thought it was the fluid attracting water cause it’s very ‘hydrophobic’ (don’t know the proper word!) because I couldn’t taste anything when I licked it 🤪——————-
Even with the vacuum kit I had to remove the front master cylinder and the calliper (plugged the pads with an old disc) and make them as horizontal as possible before bleeding. Was a proper ‘Faff!’
I really need to do it again, because I can’t figure out why the front isn’t biting at the moment. It bites enough to dip the forks then is total bollox. Even with Brembo carbon ceramic pads. I even cross~cross sanded the disc with no results. I’m at a bit of a loss…
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Turn off switchThe engine stops when the connection is made, ignition is earthed. I don’t understand what your problem is?
If you disconnect the kill switch the bike will still run…
If you disconnect the ignition key block connector the bike will run but have no lights…
Just fit the button and try it…